Bire SE-Flank | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Bire SE-Flank Bire 2502 m

Difficulty

5c (4c)
Pitches / Height Difference

13 P / 500 m
Exposition / Rock Type

SE, W / Limestone
Altitude start

2000 m

Situated in the wonderful surroundings of the Öschinensee beneath the glaciated world of Fründenhorn and Blüemlisalp, this well equipped and relatively easy route attracts a host of visitors. If it wasn't for the demanding descent, many more people would visit it too. The climbing is split into two distinctly different sections. In the "Tschäri" (lower part) the route leads over slabby, grassy walls to the wide grass band of the Öschi Schafberg. The upper section is less often down and also less rewarding.

Route description

Approach

Related route: Approach to Bire SE-Flank

The route, up to Tschäri

The route leads in 8 pitches, interrupted by an 80 m high grass bank, roughly 300 m to the first 'summit'. From here you can abseil back to the start or follow the unmarked Öschischafberg mountain trail eastward to join the normal descent.

Continuation to the main summit of Bire

The upper section of the route is not as difficult and less rewarding. However, it is nice to end on the real summit and doesn't take too much effort.

Descent

Related route: Descent from Bire

Additional information

Protection: Very well equipped
Rope: 2x50m
Quick draws: 12
Stoppers: -
Friends: -
Trad Protection: + sparse placements, placing gear is difficult ++ good placements, placing in most cases possible +++ very good placements, placing gear is easy: -
Abseiling possible: ✔
Foot Descent: ✔
Ski approach possible: -
Glacier equipment: -

Protection / Material: If you don't plan to abseil over the route a single 50 m rope is sufficient.

The 6a variant to the Tschäri is less well equipped and has larger distances between bolts; cams and stoppers are necessary .

Descent: From the top of Bire, first follow the NE ridge for 80 m then climb over a steep grassy slope southwards to reach a footpath. Head

a) back to the abseil piste on Tschäri and in 5 x 50m back to the start, see topo. (Caution: the abseiling points are not easy to find!) Otherwise,

b) after 1 km at P. 2302 a steep path leads through grassy slopes and a short rock step back towards the top station of the chair lift. When wet, the descent is dangerous! Duration of the descent from the top of Bire to the train station: 2 hours.