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- From the Jungfraujoch
From the Jungfraujoch

From the Jungfraujoch (Normal route) Berglihütte SAC 3299 m

Difficulty

PD
Ascent

2–3 h, 220 m
Descent

380 m

The normal approach is the route described here from Jungfraujoch station. The accesses via the Zäsenberg or the Challi are very long and often difficult. Access from the Eismeer station is no longer possible due to the changing glaciers. Depending on the circumstances, large gaps in the area of the lower Mönchsjoch.

Route from Obere to Unner Mönchsjoch with a variant in case of crevasse trouble. © Marco Bomio

Short steep section after the Unners Mönchjoch © Bomio Marco

Descent over the snow and rock ridge to the hut. © Bomio Marco

The destination; the Berglihütte of SAC Grindelwald at 3299m. (09/2004) © SAC

The interior of the hut, just like the good old days! © Bomio Marco

Route description

Jungfraujoch to the Berglihütte

From the station Jungfraujoch (3454 m) exit onto the glacier through the Sphinx tunnel. From the tunnel exit cross the wide glacier towards the Mönchsjochhütte and the Obers Mönchsjoch (This section is usually tracked by piste-bullies and deemed safe for tourists). Descend into the topmost hollow of the Ewigschneefäld (glacier east of the Obers Mönchsjoch), before crossing north east and ascending once more to the Unners Mönchsjoch. From here an initial steep snow or ice slope leads down to the north and over a snow and rock ridge to the hut (a cairn stand on the first rock).

Variant 1, if large crevasses by the Unners Mönchsjoch

On the north side below the Unners Mönchsjoch there are often large crevasses. In these cases it is better to follow the ridge west towards Eigerjoch before turning right in the vicinity of P. 3561 (with fore-knowledge you can bare straight for P.3561 while crossing the Ewigschneefäld) and descending the slopes.. Bare northeast to gain the snow and rock ridge and descent to the hut.

Variant 2, if large crevasses by the Unners Mönchsjoch

The bergschrund on the south side below the Unners Mönchsjoch can often be crossed more easliy (especially in autumn) further to the east (direction Walcherhorn). After reaching the W-ridge of the Walcherhorn, follow it back to gain the Unners Mönchsjoch and head down to the hut as described above.

Additional information

Departure point

Jungfraujoch (3466 m)

Get there Google Maps

Waypoints

Obers Mönchsjoch (3623 m)

Unders / Unners Mönchsjoch (3518 m)

History: The Berglihütte was built in 1869 and was the first SAC hut in the Jungfrau region. It was then reachable from Grindewald in 7 to 9 hours. The hut was enlarged to 30 places in 1904, and hence flourished between 1905 and 1912 when Station Eismeer on the Jungfrau Railway served as a favorable starting point. During this period, in 1910, a tragic avalanche accident below the hut occurred, killing 7 climbers.

After the opening of Jungfraujoch station in 1912, the mountain hut lost more and more importance. It was therefore never rebuilt, but always well maintained. Mountaineers, who want to experience the ambience and comfort of the SAC huts from the early days of the Swiss Alpine Club, are recommended to visit the Berglihütte.

Feedback

Marco Bomio worked as a teacher in Grindelwald for over 30 years before turning his part-time job as a mountain guide into his main job. In the Grindelwald Section of the SAC he was first the JO boss and later the president. He has headed the Grindelwald Museum for 10 years.