Southwest Ridge (Zackengrat) | Alpinism

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Southwest Ridge (Zackengrat)

Southwest Ridge (Zackengrat) (Normal route) Balmhorn 3698 m

Difficulty

PD+
Ascent

5 h

The ascent via the southwest ridge, called "Zackengrat" is the normal route to the Balmhorn, both in summer and in winter. With ideal conditions, the ascent through the N-flank to reach the Zackengrat is relatively easy, if no more snow is left, this passage becomes more demanding. Ice axe and crampons, however, are part of the basic equipment. A rope is recommended in the transition from the pre-summit to the main summit, are often a number of large hidden crevasses. The Zackengrat usually serves as a descent route for those who have climbed either the Wildelsigrat or Gitzigrat. If you have climbed up the Zackengrat however, a ridge crossing to the neighbouring peak of Altels and subsequent descent on its NW flank is highly recommended.

On the Zackengrat. In the background the fore- and just visible main summit of the Balmhorn. (10/2017) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

On the steep slope of the Schwarzgletscher heading up to the Zackengrat. Pleasant with good snow. Because of the risk of rockfall stay here on the eastern side of the slope if possible. (10/2016) © Senn-Erismann Bernhard

The steep slope of the Schwarzgletscher heading up to the Zackengrat without any snow left. © Rolf Schatzmann

Route description

Berghotel Schwarenbach - Schwarzgletscher

From Berghotel Schwarenbach (2060 m) follow the broad Gemmiweg in the direction of Spittelmatte to P. 2057. Now you follow the ascent on the marked path to the east, later southeast to reach the western moraines of the vanishing Schwarzgletscher at about 2150 m.

Schwarzgletscher - Zackengrat - Summit

You enter the rubble-strewn Schwarzgletscher and climb up to the right of a rocky spur, before bearing left (eastwards, especially without any snow left) on the final steep slope to gain the ridge, a little northeast of the Zackenpass itself (P. 3036). With no more snow left you will find slabs partly covered with scree and later a path in the upper part. Once on the ridge you follow the usually rocky Zackengrat without difficulty. One steep step towards the end of the ridge is bypassed by descending slightly to the north and then back to the ridge. Here you reach the broad, glacial snow arete. Follow this to the fore-summit, then descend a little into the saddle (crevasses) before climbing finally up to the main summit.

Descent

Down the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point

Berghotel Schwarenbach (2060 m)

Difficulty: If no more snow is left and the upper part of the Zackengrat shows blue ice, the difficulties tend to AD.

Attention with warm tempearatues and if the slope to the Zackengrat has no more snow: Danger of rockfall.

Waypoints

Zackenpass (3034 m)