Avegno Scaladri | Alpine climbing | Swiss Alpine Club SAC

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Avegno Scaladri
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Alpine climbing

Avegno Scaladri 300 m Alpine climbing

The word "Scaladri" is derived from the dialect word for "stairs", though on the wall in question there's not a single stair in sight. On the contrary, the 300-meter-high slabs are characterised by incredibly smooth (even glossy) gneiss, dissected with beautiful cracks. The general theme here is friction climbing. The rock remains wet for a few days after heavy rainfall (less friction then) and in the summer you should climb early in the morning to escape the sun (in winter it doesn't reach the wall till midday) The Nostrano sector, further to the right, offers easier and normally less crowded routes.

24Routes

3a-4c1
5a-5c7
6a-6c13
7a-7c3
8a-9b0

Descent path from sector Scaladri / approach to sectors Nostrano and Jani © Glauco Cugini

Approaches and descents (1)

route	Difficulty	Ascent
Approach to Sector Scaladri	T2	0:05–0:30 h, 60 m

Climbing routes (13)

route	Difficulty	Ascent	Exposure	Rock type
Guerrieri dell'arcobaleno (Rainbow Warriors!)	6a	3 P / 70 m	S	Gneiss
Fantasia + Principio d'autunno	6a+	12 P / 350 m	W	Gneiss
Yoghi e Bubu + Acquario	6a+	12 P / 320 m	W	Gneiss
Arcobaleno	6b	11 P / 300 m	W	Gneiss
Taroc	6b+	13 P / 350 m	W	Gneiss
Il Tasso	6c	9 P / 300 m	W	Gneiss
Pesanteur à la tête + Acquaplaning	6c	11 P / 330 m	W	Gneiss
Stadera	6c	9 P / 280 m	W	Gneiss
Gilvios & Gilvia	6c+	12 P / 350 m	W	Gneiss
Micio spillo	6c+	8 P / 230 m	W	Gneiss
Müller	6c+	6 P / 200 m	W	Gneiss
Rosa e Jaqueline	6c+	14 P / 430 m	W	Gneiss
Shan-Gri-La	7a	12 P / 300 m	W	Gneiss