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From Mittelallalin (WNW-Ridge) (Normal route) Allalinhorn 4027 m
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- Difficulty
- PD-
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- Ascent
- 2:15–3 h, 571 m
This is the normal route and one of the shortest routes to a four-thousander. However, it should not be underestimated; seracs and bottomless crevasses are positioned along the way. Such dangers must be faced with the necessary respect and the necessary mountaineering knowledge (rope skills, crevasse rescue techniques, etc.).
Route description
Mittelallalin - Feejoch - Allalinhorn
From Mittelallalin (3456 m), walk horizontally along a broad ski piste to the two ski lifts that end on the Hinter Allalingrat. Now continue low over the gently sloping glacier towards the Feechopf, keeping far away from the clearly visible serac zone up and left (south) of you. Climb a short steep slope to reach an enormous crevasse, which crosses the entire N flank of the Allalinhorn. Early season you can usually bypass this crevasse at its western end. Continue straight up and then ascend diagonally right to reach the Feejoch (3807 m) 1½ hrs.
From here, follow the broad W-flank up and round onto the SW flank, climb south of the summit before cutting back left (N) near the top and climbing the final rocky outcrop to the summit cross 4027 m ¾ h.
Descent
Follow the route of ascent.
Additional information
- Departure point
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Mittelallalin (3456 m)
Saas-Fee – Mittelallalin: www.saas-fee.ch/en
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- Difficulty
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Depending on the route and crevasse situation on the Feegletscher, the difficulty of the ascent varies.
- Waypoints
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- History
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Leslie Stephen, C. Fischer, F.W. Jacomb, W.F. Short with mountain guides Franz-Josef Andenmatten, Moritz Anthamatten, Johann Kronig and Peter Taugwalder, 1. August 1860.
