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From Cabane du Trient to the South- and North Summits (Normal route) Aiguilles du Tour 3540 m
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- Difficulty
- PD, 2a
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- Ascent
- 3:30–4 h, 510 m
From the hut you cross the Plateau du Trient and climb the S-summit of SSE. Cross the saddle between the two peaks and climb to the N summit.
Route description
Cabane du Trient - Col Purtscheller
From the Cabane du Trient (3170 m), cross the Plateau du Trient WSW on a slight humpback to ca. 3160 m, before crossing the main glacier bowl (this allows you to pass above the worst of the crevasse zone). Contour round, then climb up to reach the Col Purtscheller (about 3383 m) SSE of the Aiguilles du Tour, 1½ hrs.
Col Purtscheller - Aiguille du Tour South Summit - North Summit
Follow the SSE ridge or, easier, along the E flank below the ridge, to reach the South Summit (3540 m), 1 h.
Now descend over the NNE ridge to the coll (about 3493 m) between the two peaks (2), ½ hrs.
Follow a rising rock band, again through the E flank, to the height of a big step in the SSW ridge, where you'll find a vague rib. Easy rock climbing and an firn field leads to the North Summit (3540 m), ½ hour.
Descent
Follow the ascent route back to the saddle, then descend a steep firn couloir eastwards onto the Plateau du Trient. Traverse over the the ascent tracks and follow these back to the hut (3170 m), 1½ hrs.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- Waypoints
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- History
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Charles G. Heathcote with mountain guide Moritz Andenmatten, 18. August 1864.
