From the Cabane du Trient via the Nordost-Wand | Alpinism | Swiss Alpine Club SAC
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From the Cabane du Trient via the Nordost-Wand (Normal route) Aiguille Purtscheller 3474 m

  • Difficulty
    PD, I
  • Ascent
    2:30–3 h, 367 m
  • Descent
    102 m

This is the route of the first ascent, it includes a short climb and a good descent. From the hut you cross the Plateau du Trient to the Col Purtscheller and climb over the NE flank to the summit.

Route description

Cabane du Trient - Col Purtscheller
From the Cabane du Trient (3170 m), cross the Plateau du Trient WSW on a slight humpback to ca. 3160 m, before crossing the main glacier bowl (this allows you to pass above the worst of the crevasse zone). Contour round, then climb up to reach the Col Purtscheller (about 3383 m) SSE of the Aiguilles du Tour, 1 hrs. Variant: If starting from Refuge Albert, climb the Couloir de la Table. Climb a steep firn slope and through a rocky couloir to reach the Col Purtscheller (1¼ hours).
Col Purtscheller - Aiguille Purtscheller
From the pass climb southwards over a short firn slope to the foot of the NE wall. Move eastwards over a few steps of shattered rocks to reach a vaguely formed couloir that slopes up to the right (west). Climb up through this couloir up to the summit (3475 m), 1½ hours.
Descent
Same as the route of ascent.

Additional information

Departure point
Waypoints
History

Ludwig Purtscheller, 17 June 1890.

Author

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf

Bernhard Rudolf Banzhaf has climbed countless peaks at home and abroad, including all 4000ers of the Valais Alps. He has been organizing trekking trips in the Himalayas and in Europe since the early 1980s. He was a member of the SAC's central committee between 1995 and 2003.

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