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Southwest Flank and South East Ridge (Normal route) Äbeni Flue 3962 m
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- Difficulty
- F
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- Ascent
- 2:30–3:30 h, 730 m
The Äbeni Fluh is a popular mountain despite being just shy of 4000 m in altitude. The normal route from the Hollandiahütte can be done on foot in the summer as well as in winter with skis or snowshoes. Shortly after leaving the hut, some large crevasses have to be negotiated on the flat part of the Äbeni Flue glacier, same again to gain the snow slope below the summit. The approach to the Hollandiahütte from the Jungfraujoch, or even more so from Lötschental, is longer and more demanding than climbing the Äbeni Fluh itself, especially in the summer months.
Route description
Hollandiahütte - Äbeni Flue-Firn - Äbeni Flue
From the Hollandiahütte (3240 m) start out across the initially crevassed but later harmless Äbeni Flue-Firn following its gentle rise towards the peak. Make a wide arc to the right (eastwards), avoiding the steepest ground to gain the saddle between P. 3946 m and the main summit. From here follow the flat snow ridge to the top at 3962 m.
Descent
Down the Ascent Route.
Additional information
- Departure point
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- History
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First ascent made by Thomas Lloyd Murray Browne with mountainguides Peter Bohren und Peter Schlegel on 27. August 1868.
- Route last update
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08/2017
